Anchors (Stowed) Away!

A search for better anchor stowage

Anchors are a sailor’s conundrum. When menacing storm clouds approach our boat in harbor, we want the heaviest anchors possible. But when sailing, excess anchor weight on the bow becomes burdensome to our vessel, perhaps even dangerous. 

An approaching squall at anchor in Moody Brook, Stanley Harbor, East Falkland

When a summer storm approached us in the Falkland Islands, 300 miles east of Cape Horn, Brian and I took stock of the ground tackle aboard our Allied Seawind 30. We deployed three of our four anchors. As the wind backed Brian managed the anchor rodes until they were all tensioned and holding Dawn Treader in position against sustained winds over 60 knots. Our largest anchor lay straight ahead and two others flanked it, 30 degrees to port and starboard.We stood at the port-lights eating popcorn, watching dense clouds of spray fly by and listening to the wind hiss as it hit the water, like bacon in a hot pan.  

Using three anchors in Watt Cove, East Falkland
The Plym (foreground) and The Lady Elizabeth, two of The Falkland Islands’ many shipwrecks, were blown into Whalebone Cove in 1936 and 1945. Ground tackle is serious business in The Falkland Islands.

Later that same month, as depression after depression passed through, we searched the forecast for favorable weather to sail west. With no weather window in sight, we eventually chose to sail upwind in a force seven. We hardened the sheets, heeled Dawn Treader to new limits, and tacked 150 miles against the near gale. As we punched through steep seas, the bow plunged heavily with each wave. 

Although we had stowed much of our ground tackle low and amidships in preparation, the bow still carried an anchor and chain, or 200 pounds, for the coastwise trip. The laden bow amplified our boat’s motion in the waves and caused her to hobby-horse and lose drive. Nevertheless, we bashed on. It felt like the bow was hitting solid blocks instead of waves. We heard our forward toe rail crack and lost part of it to the sea. 

The anchor conundrum grabs our attention in extreme conditions like these, but the problem also exists in-between extremes. Most cruising boats need heavy holding power, and most boats sail best without extra weight on the bow, especially upwind. 

How much weight on the bow is too much? It is difficult to know where the line is, to know what exact weight creates problems. Instead of dwelling on a question that we cannot answer, we ask: how much weight can we remove from the bow? This question guides our search for better anchor stowage. Our search started well before our trip to the Falkland Islands and continues today.

In 2015 we built a below deck anchor locker while alongside a dock in southeast Georgia. We converted the center walkway notch in Dawn Treader’s v-berth into storage. We enclosed the notch with two pieces: a 30-inch high plywood panel on the aft side and an opening hatch on the top. This created a triangular compartment underneath the bunk. With the notch gone, the bunk was flush all the way across. Although the notch had been valuable, because it made entry into the forward bunks comfortable and easy, the space was amidships and low, and perfect for storing anchors. 

The locker allowed us to carry our ideal anchor collection. It easily fit a 45-pound Mantus, a 44-pound Spade, a 33-pound Rocna, and an 11-pound Fortress. We passed these anchors in and out of the locker via the convenient overhead hatch. On deck, we used a Lofrans Manual windlass and two bow rollers to deploy and retrieve ground tackle. 

Anchor collection at the Camber in Stanley Harbor, 2019

Our anchor collection was complemented by four rodes. We carried 275 feet of chain in four lengths (150, 50, 50, and 25 feet), 3 of the four had 150 feet of nylon rode attached. We kept the longest chain in the chain locker. The two 50-foot long rodes were stowed in buckets atop the anchors in the anchor locker, and the last was typically kept attached to our Jordan Series Drogue.

In 2016 we sailed away from the east coast of the United States with our ground tackle secure in our new anchor locker. We crossed the Atlantic twice: first eastbound to the Azores, and then westbound across the equator to Brazil. From Brazil we sailed deeper south, into the Southern Ocean to the Falkland Islands. We were in those wind-swept islands in the Furious Fifties for over a year, and we put our anchor collection to work. When in doubt, put another anchor out, and we did, often. 

The anchor locker we built served its purpose, however, it also caused problems. We knew we had compromised ergonomics by converting the notch. But it was startling that such a small shift made a fundamental impact on our life aboard. As time went on, we accessed the v-berth less and less. Ultimately, we stopped living in the forward third of our boat.

The aft bulkhead of the locker was an obstacle at the end of a squat, narrow passageway into the v-berth. To reach our bunk, we hunched over, squeezed through, and climbed up—all at the same time. Once we reached the v-berth platform we spun, 180 degrees into the horizontal position. It felt like break-dancing, not the start to a restful night’s sleep. If we forgot to turn on the anchor light, the scramble out and in again was even more annoying. 

Brian climbs into the v-berth

After the Falkland Islands, we sailed to Chile and Tierra del Fuego, where it was cold and damp. Airflow was hindered by the locker as much as we were. The air in the v-berth was stagnant and cold. We began sleeping in the main cabin near the wood stove, away from the condensation and mold that formed unchecked up forward.  

For a couple of years we made the most of the otherwise uninhabitable v-berth by filling it with waterproof bags of assorted gear. We also added large produce hammocks between the fore and aft bulkheads. We had room for melons and pumpkins, and all sorts of stores. No matter how much we stored in the v-berth, however, it never made up the loss of our small boat’s living space. We were stuck in the main cabin.

In 2021 we set out to solve the problem, and others, on our growing jobs list. After months in the wilderness, sailing through the through the Straits of Magellan and north through Chilean Patagonia, we departed Chile. We sailed a 40 day nonstop passage to Mexico. We aimed for Mexico’s dry climate and a DIY friendly boatyard. Dawn Treader was situated on the hard there by the summer of 2022. Our primary goal was to prepare her for high latitude sailing. Step one: we needed to make the v-berth livable again. It was time to modify the anchor locker. 

During our time in Chile, the incessant moisture had ruined the subpar plywood we had installed in 2015. We ripped out the delaminated and rotted v-berth platform and anchor locker and gathered the marine grade plywood, epoxy, fiberglass, and paint needed to rebuild.

Damaged plywood, v-berth platform removal

We planned to build a reduced height anchor locker. Our compact, nestled stack of anchors (3 of our 4 anchors disassemble) measured 20 inches high. Without buckets of extra rode on top, we could stack and stow the anchors in a locker 10 inches shorter than the first one. Overall it seemed like a good solution, but we didn’t know if the reduction was enough. A 20 inch high bulkhead was still an impediment.

Just before we started reconstruction, Brian studied the space intently. He made a last-minute decision to cut out a section of the original plywood sole in the v-berth, in what had become the bottom of the anchor locker. He found more space for anchors under the sole, in the bilge.

The next day we built steadily. We built the new base of the anchor locker lower by going 6 inches into the bilge. The aft bulkhead of the locker was transformed, from an obstacle into a 14 inch high step. 

Access to the v-berth improved dramatically. Now we step fluidly forward, onto the lid of the anchor locker. We also have space to swing our legs up and down, or in and out of bed—no more break-dancing. 

With the anchor locker complete, the weight of chain in the bow remained a nagging question. Finally, after several months of refitting the boat, we realized there was space for chain underneath the sole in the head. When practical, we can now move our heavier, primary rode into new compartments, located low and center. When we do, we plan to sail with a lighter, secondary rode in the bow locker.  

We built our first anchor locker in 2015 to solve a stowage problem. Unfortunately, the locker solved one problem and created another. We enjoyed the stowage solution and lived with its shortcomings for eight years. This time, we rebuilt to solve both problems. We preserved stowage and reclaimed access. We also got a little something extra in the refit process; we now have a new location for chain. We are counting the days until we put our solutions to the test, and the true testing ground is just a short trip in the travel lift, across the boatyard and into the sea. 

Blogging in the Boatyard

Dawn Treader has been on land for 20 months, and we’re finally cooking with gas. We lit our new propane stove for the first time last week, and were both impressed and slightly intimidated with the heat and power of the burners. The new propane stove is faster and quieter than our kerosene primus stove, and this improvement happened at the perfect moment.

Let’s say that channel fever, a restlessness many sailors experience towards the end of a journey, begins when a passage is approximately 80% to 90% complete. And let’s assume that this refit is an ongoing journey, a stationary voyage, that began with Dawn Treader’s haul out and will end with her splash. Now, with somewhere between a couple and a few months left, we are restless with channel fever.

I feel it, and cooking faster seems to help tamp down my precipitous emotions. Furthermore, cooking with gas represents the act of nearly completing the galley rebuild, which feels good. Almost all of our projects, and the refit at large, are nearly complete. Although this state has infected us with channel fever, being nearly complete is still better than our prior state: indefinitely slogging onward.

We have been in over our heads for 20 months, but we’ve been fine with that. We know how to tread water. This refit demands constant energy and effort, and we’ve delivered both. Our dream, our memory, of a simple life on the water keeps us motivated. The biggest weight, however, and the one thing that threatens to drown us, is time. Time frustrates us because we have been unable to accurately estimate how long things will take. A sailor here recently told us this is Hofstader’s law (named after Douglas Hofstader). The law states that a task will always take longer than you expect, even when Hofstadter’s law is taken into account. We see this happening all around us. It seems impossible for most sailors to predict the exact length of their complicated projects.

Time becomes an important player when you are paying rent, when you’re in a boat out of the water, and when you’re managing expectations. Time becomes a nuisance. Time facilitates stress. Before this refit, we had benched Time. It sat on the sidelines of our lives while other things played for the win, things like beauty, curiosity, wonder, and simplicity.

Keeping up this blog has always been difficult. When we’re away from civilization or land, it is not easy to stay in touch. I thought that being present in both, for so long, would make things easier. But, we still haven’t found our land legs, and I’m not sure we will. Awkwardness and difficulty adapting to a busy, noisy life on land have gotten in the way of blogging. These refit months have also been packed with design, labor, material procurement, and research, and this has limited our bandwidth for creating complete written sentences. 

Channel fever, however, has inspired impatience, and it seems wise to use this restless energy to blog, to connect and to share. Eventually, we’d like to show you some before and after pictures of our projects (whenever they are finished), and take you through our refit bit by bit. The transformation of our boat is almost complete. She’s not the tired, weathered old girl that sailed here. She’s almost ready for the next adventure. 

I look forward to writing about sailing and traveling again. But for now, thank you for sharing my break from boat work, to read something of what it’s like in the boatyard, aboard Dawn Treader, where we’re happy to be cooking with gas. 

V-Berth Insulation, Part 2, Headliner Removal and Surface Prep

Brian finished the headliner removal this week. First, we unfastened a couple of stanchions, handrail bolts, and trim that were in the way. Next, Brian used a chisel, a multi-max, and some muscle to pull out the remaining sections of the headliner. Some pieces were tabbed to bulkheads with narrow fiberglass tape. These were more difficult to remove, but he got the job done quickly.  

The next step was surface preparation. The resin used to adhere the headliner was applied in large blobs. These blobs are now brittle and sharp around the edges. They stand out in green because the weave of the headliner remained attached to them. Removing the headliner unearthed a variable surface; resin in peaks and valleys, bare spots where the deck core almost peeks through. 

Leveling this surface completely is difficult and unnecessary. But Brian has used the variable speed angle grinder to smooth over the area. We are left with a more undulating and friendly surface to work with. In the coming weeks, we will attach a support framework or webbing to this imperfect, but improved surface. The webbing will support the deck from below. It will also create a network or grid of material that stands out from the overhead. Insulation will go in between the grid, and cover panels will mount to the grid.

The refit is moving along now. We have taken steps to make things easier: our tools are ready to go, our workspace is clear, and we have what we need to move forward with our immediate jobs. It took a day to clean and organize our tools. Our Grandpa tools needed some tender loving care. All the tools are fairly young, but due to conditions in some of the storage lockers aboard, they have aged rapidly. The rented apartment has come in handy. We have pushed in as much as we can reasonably fit. Sails are stacked on bins. Buckets are stacked on boxes. Now that everything is off the boat, we have trouble remembering how all this stuff fit aboard little Dawn Treader. Added to the pile are some materials we had sent to Lukeville, AZ. With these, we now have all the items we need for our epoxy and fiberglass kit. We also made a trip to the big box hardware stores in the United States, and spent a few hours navigating the aisles.  

There are still big things missing from our supplies. We wish it were easier to find insulation and plywood, and we’ll need these and other things sooner rather than later. But, for now, at least we can keep going…

V-Berth Insulation, Part 1, Dismantle and Refit Plan

We spent the first few weeks of this refit period adjusting to life on land. We made trips away from the boat to see family. We gathered tools. We moved ourselves and everything off the boat. In week five, we took real action at Dawn Treader, and the boat was changed in a day.

Dawn Treader in the Boatyard

The V-Berth was dismantled. The side panels, insulation, port lights, and headliner were removed. The headliner was cut out with a multi-max. Roughly 70 percent of the liner now sits against the fence behind the boat. We were pleased that so much was removed so quickly. The liner was largely unattached to the deck above. We will remove the remaining sections of liner when we remove the thru-bolted handrails and stanchions on deck.

We found thin stripes of mold on the insulation when we removed the sealing strips of plywood on the sides of the V-Berth. We found mold behind the insulation when we removed the plastic panels and insulation above the shelves. We found mold on the backside of the headliner, around the border, the outside inch, when we cut out the liner in sections. Wherever air was able to flow a little bit, there was a little bit of mold. 

All of what we’re removing on the sides of the V-Berth, the insulation, panels, and sealing strips, we installed in 2015. This installation proved inadequate during three years sailing in colder climates. We made mistakes. We did not go far enough. We did not reimagine the V-Berth well for cold climates. As a result, we used this valuable living space for storage instead of sleeping. The mold in difficult to clean spaces was an issue, another was condensation. The original, uninsulated headliner created a large surface for condensation. Occasionally, we had rain inside. Big fat drops formed on the coachroof. We also had condensation problems on the overhead hatch, the hardware that held the side panels up, and on the metal port light frames.

Many sailors fight condensation and mold. We hope our time in the desert, drying out and refitting Dawn Treader, will better prepare us for these struggles. We have learned many lessons in the past few years, and now we are re ready to try again. Our efforts will be more complex and lengthy this time. Our plans include adding an insulation supporting framework under the deck, and more of everything: insulation, heat, ventilation, air circulation, and access (we plan to widen the opening to the V-Berth). We plan to install different port lights. We will also replace the V-Berth platform again. The plywood delaminated in the rainforest. Our primary goal is to make the V-Berth inhabitable in all climates. Let’s see how it goes…

Video: Cubic Mini Cub Wood Stove

We are loving springtime in Uruguay, and we’ve made the time to reflect back on winter in Uruguay with our new Cubic Mini Cub wood stove. We hope you enjoy the video!

Thank you Chuck for bringing us the wood stove, and for all the tips on birding!

Refinishing the Bowsprit

We move about the world at an irregular pace.  Occasionally we sail fast and appear to be on track to girdle the entire globe in a year.  Other times we seem stagnant, as if we have arrived to our destination and our journey is over.  Of course neither is true for long.  No matter how fast we sail, we will slow down sooner than later.  Dawn Treader, Debbie, and I can only pretend so long before we reveal our true slow natures.  But when we seem most stuck, we are actually purposefully moving to rest ourselves, prepare our boat, and wait for a season to arrive.  Continue reading Refinishing the Bowsprit

Interior Paint 2

Since we made so many interior modifications, we had a great opportunity to paint the entire cabin. Painting all the old formica, and lots of dark teak trim, changed the cabin drastically. It is brighter, more cheerful, and easier to clean. Continue reading Interior Paint 2

Cockpit Lockers

After removing the engine, we were left with a huge open space under the cockpit. No longer needing to access machinery, we are able partition the space into lockers for added structure and watertight integrity. Continue reading Cockpit Lockers

Cockpit Footwell

Seawinds were designed with large cockpit footwells. If confronted with a survival storm, we plan to lay to a series drogue, exposing our stern to breaking waves. This makes a strong, small volume cockpit essential.  Continue reading Cockpit Footwell